JAR, Paul Flato and Chopard headline December Phillips Jewelry Sale – Robb Report
Still looking for a special holiday gift? Phillips could have exactly what the doctor ordered.
Monday evening at 5:00 p.m. EST, the auction house will hold its December Gems Live Auction at its new headquarters at 432 Park Avenue in New York City. There will be 120 lots in total with pieces from JAR, Bulgari, Chopard, Cartier and other big names.
We browsed the jewelry in person recently and can say, without a doubt, that the highlight will be the pair of cuff bracelets in 18k rose gold with 101.50 carats of colored diamonds by American-born Parisian jeweler, Joel Arthur Rosenthal , known as JAR. Whoever brings them home will need to have small wrists (they weren’t easy to get on and off) and big pockets (estimate is $300,000-$500,000 and we expect them to exceed their maximum estimate). The jeweler has, of course, achieved cult status among the affluent and only makes 100 pieces a year, many of which are bespoke creations made especially for its clients.
But jewelry connoisseurs are sure to notice the Paul Flato bracelet (estimate $300,000-$500,000). Sara Payne Thomeier, Phillips’ head of jewelry for the Americas, noted that Flato’s pieces are rarely auctioned off, but when they do, her fanatics quickly snap them up. The bracelet features a stunning hexagonal cabochon-shaped Colombian emerald that has been hand-carved, weighing approximately 200 carats, and is surrounded by 10.10 carats of antique European-cut, transitional-cut and one-cut diamonds set in platinum.
If you’re looking for a more affordable, yet no less desirable piece of wrist jewelry, may we suggest a remarkable 18k yellow gold Piaget watch designed by Salvador Dalí? The 22k yellow gold piece slides through gold hoops to fit any wrist size and features the faces of Dali and his wife, Gala. The reverse is adorned with fleur-de-lis, bay leaves and eggs, symbols of rebirth often found in Dalí’s works. It is signed by the artist and dated 1966 (estimate $10,000 – $15,000). It’s not an everyday watch. The piece is heavy and hangs below the wrist, so it certainly wouldn’t be practical for everyday tasks, but it would certainly make a great conversation piece at a cocktail party.
The same goes for the pair of silver Gucci cuffs ($8,000-$10,000), meant to be worn tied to one wrist with the other cuff dangling. Designed in the days of Tom Ford, they are believed to have been displayed in Gucci store windows just after Maurizio Gucci was killed in a murder-for-hire plot by his estranged wife Patrizia Reggiani. Consider it a case of perfect timing – the fiasco movie, Gucci Housestarring Adam Driver and Lady Gaga, is out now and is one of the biggest theatrical releases of the year.
But if you’re looking for more traditional red carpet drama, a Chopard choker necklace set with 156.33 carats of pear-cut, pink pear-cut, round-briolette and round-brilliant-cut diamonds should do the trick. case (estimate $300,000 – $500,000). It measures approximately 13 1/2 inches and comes with a signed and equipped file with the appraisal report including a copy of its original certificate. Alternatively, there is also a stunning unsigned antique pink morganite necklace set in 18k white gold with a pear-shaped morganite measuring approximately 34.24 x 19.21 x 13.16mm which offers as much impact as the Chopard but for a fraction of the cost with an estimate of $40,000 to $60,000. It dates from around 1840, but looks quite modern in its layout and setting.
Finally, if you want to be doubly sure that your piece is worth its weight in gold, a Boucheron pendant from the 80s is set with such an amount of precious alloy that it looks like a paperweight in the hand. It is set with 18k yellow gold, 6.30 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds and mixed cut cabochon onyx. True to its time, this is a “go big or go home” style piece.
A more manageable locket is famous Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro’s tourmaline, emerald and ruby necklace in 18k yellow gold (estimate $5,000-$7,000). It dates from the mid-60s and comes in a range of cool geometric shapes. For those who collect jewelry designed by artists, this will be a must-have in addition to Dalí’s Piaget watch.
In other words, there’s something for everyone here…even handcuffs for the naughtiest recipients on your gift list.