Saint Laurent Podcast, Baumer Sale, Tier’s LA Arrival – WWD
SMOKING BREAK: Do you still get nervous when you’ve been in front of the public and the cameras for as long as Catherine Deneuve?
“Yes… I’ve always had it,” revealed the French actress in the first episode of “Smoking Le Podcast”, a series launched Friday as part of the Saint Laurent Rive Droite cultural hub.
Throughout a 33-minute chat with French journalist Pascale Clark, Deneuve shares insight into some of her roles, but also that she was originally drawn to architecture and painting, not the movie theater.
A longtime friend of Yves Saint Laurent – she serenaded him alongside then-model Laetitia Casta for his farewell show – Deneuve has revealed that meeting Saint Laurent artistic director Anthony Vaccarello at a festival in honor of the late couturier in Marrakech, she had appreciated “what he did, what he said, and his shyness too.
When asked if all of her roles were a kaleidoscope that portrayed her as a person, the actress felt it was “more of a zigzag.” But true to her reputation as a notoriously private person, she noted that while it was tempting to think about it, she wasn’t interested in discussing it.
Being in the public eye, she explained that she got some benefits from it but “struggled to respond positively to an image you were given without feeling totally made up”.
Deneuve also said that while being called “the most beautiful woman in the world” created pressure and expectations, it “also forced you to take care of yourself, while you could let go when you weren’t working. don’t, don’t shoot”.
Other topics include her relationship with the press, how she keeps a certain mystery when she’s in the public eye – “it’s more secret than mystery”, she remarks – or what could make her quit. to act: “more scripts that interest me”, was his answer.
Other episodes of the Smoking podcast will have Charlotte Gainsbourg, Laetitia Casta, filmmaker Gaspar Noé and actor Félix Maritaud as guests. —LILY TEMPLETON
EVERYTHING MUST GO: When it comes to striking creations, jeweler Lorenz Bäumer not only loves creating them, he also loves the thrill of a good find.
“I buy because [an object] is beautiful and then I have to find a place for it,” he admitted.
The downside is that right now, space is limited in his Paris home, as evidenced by the frames leaning five deep against a wall.
That’s why he was offering around 100 lots in an online auction with auction house Sotheby’s from Thursday to Sunday, although he joked that industry rumor probably thought he was broke.
Under the hammer, an eclectic selection included photographs, Art Deco tea sets by 20th-century French goldsmith Jean E. Puiforcat, carved ebony figurines by sculptor Alexandre Noll, bespoke Hermès briefcases and an antique Japanese armoire. complex.
There were also some of her jewels, such as the “Titanium Ile Au Trésor” bracelet with its 55-carat green tourmaline, inspired by Robert Louis Stevenson’s treasure island, Bäumer’s favorite childhood book, and a ring solitaire representing one of its “tattooed” diamonds.
To guide the items he was selling, the jeweler said he wanted to use the sale as a window into his creative world. “It’s a slice of my life…things that inspire my work and represent the dialogue you can have with other designers,” he said, highlighting how Noll’s abstract shapes inspired his collection. Black Magic” or the geometric shapes of a cabinet by American sculptor Paul Evans had influenced his “Mikado” line.
That and “showing that behind the mark there’s a guy who’s not dead yet,” he joked.
Given his fondness for hunting down conversation starters at vintage markets and art fairs – “I love that you can come to my house knowing nothing,” he explained – it just scratch the surface of his life as a collector.
“My wife is really bummed that we’re only selling about 100 items because you can’t really see any space being made,” he said. “I’m very pushy.”
That was another criteria in his selection: things with a big footprint. Like, say, a seat by Brazilian designers Fernando and Humberto Campana and made of crocodile stuffed animals, or a bulbous metal totem pole occupying a corner of the living room. Originally designed by the Greek sculptor Philolaos to house the cathode-ray television, it now concealed Bäumer’s bar.
And if its next owner wanted ideas for filling it, the jeweler has also listed a handful of rare whiskeys and bourbons. He said he appreciates these spirits because, like the precious materials he works with, they are “what nature gives us and what human craftsmanship turns into something extraordinary – or unpleasant”. , he noted.
Selling part of his collection was also a cathartic process, and one that Bäumer has been through before, tearing down his collection of photographs or abandoning a style of furniture that no longer quite suited his tastes.
Don’t expect him to have any regrets either. “Objects must continue their life. [Those I sell] brought me a lot of pleasure, just like the ones I haven’t acquired yet,” he said, admitting that the cycle had already started again. He had visited the PAD Paris art fair earlier in the week and came away with “a few things, but on a smaller scale,” he hastened to add. —LT
FIRST LOOK: Tier – the Brooklyn, NY brand launched by Nigeria Ealey, Isaiah Jean-Simon and Victor James – opens its first physical store at the Beverly Center mall in Los Angeles on Friday.
“Minimalist and artsy,” is how Ealey described his vision for the 975-square-foot boutique. He, Simon and James launched the brand, which offers men’s and women’s clothing, in 2014 when Ealey was an undergraduate at Long Island University in Brooklyn. It’s “luxurious, contemporary streetwear,” he said of Tier.
Often incorporating artwork into their clothing, it’s no surprise that this is reflected in the store, which features paintings inspired by New York and its neighborhoods, as well as various objects – from Dr Seuss’ “Oh, the Places You’ll Go!” at a New York chess game, creating an intimate in-store experience.
“A lot of the store concept came from a lot of my favorite stores and brands growing and implementing exactly what I saw in certain retail spaces as a consumer,” Ealey said.
“One thing I always refer to is going into the [Billionaire Boys Club] ice cream shop in SoHo when I was younger,” he continued. “As soon as you walk in, it smells like ice cream, literally. And so, with that mindset – it’s another element to add vision to your space, isn’t it? Even the way it smells. How do people feel when they enter this space? I thought about the minimalism of the Apple Store and the ease of processing transactions. I looked at one of my other favorite stores, Uniqlo, and how they have so many different products, but how organized and easy to browse.… But creatively, I wanted it to be welcoming. I wanted it to feel like a mix of New York and LA”
With prices ranging from $100 to $800, in-store shoppers will find LA exclusives, with around 15 new pieces. The Tier “Essentials” line, a logo collection of crew-neck sweaters, hoodies, sweatpants, shorts and socks in various colors, was the top seller, according to Ealey. Tier hats have also been popular with fans of the brand, including Rick Ross, Carmelo Anthony and Jimmy Butler.
“I’m excited to see how T LA hats are performing because our T NY hats have done really well over the past two years,” he said of the caps, $65 each, which feature a logo Massive T superimposed on the letters NY.
Why was LA the right decision?
“It was just the perfect timing,” Easley said. “The opportunity presented itself. We have a great community in LA when it comes to the brand. It was like, now is the time to not only be in a new market, in a new city, but we already have clients here, people going from New York to LA. We really want to do a lot of other cities too, but starting here with this made sense for this time.… And now that we’re in Beverly Center, you know, is also a position of representation – to be an independent brand for so long and to be able to have our brand now at level seven on the luxury store floor of the Beverly Center, being children of Brooklyn with this admiration and having it updated and visualized, it just shows that other people are coming in and saying, “Hey, like that, it’s possible for you too.” We want to have that impact, culturally.
The brand has ongoing partnerships, and Tier will unveil its next collection, “Project Five,” in September during New York Fashion Week.
“My mindset, I’m honestly really in a space of development and growth,” he added. — RYMA CHIKHOUNE